The service boot of the British soldier in the First World War was a full leather ankle boot. These are a "reproduction" made in England; the same company manufactured them during the war! We got this production run with rubber half-soles and heel plates as the original pig-iron hobnails are a bit incompatible with today's world. Single thickness sole makes for a more flexible boot.
In the past, the soldier's choice of footwear was either jackboots or lace-up shoes and puttees, as was the case with the British Army. The B5 ankle boot was adopted for service in 1916, replacing the older B2 model, until superseded by the WWII Ammo Boot. In general, the B5 is a proper tough ol' military boot just as they used to be back in the day. These are excellent everyday boots, and you can pretty much go anywhere with these, although for muddy trenches there might be better choices today - provided you first find the trench.
The manufacturer's stock configuration for these is the original one, meaning there are metal hobnails on the front and "horseshoe" heel irons. Although for re-enactors this is good stuff, for everyone else it's not such a good deal, as the irons wear fast and are very hazardous on even surfaces. We ordered this production run with rubber half-soles and heel pieces, which you can replace at your local cobbler when needed. We kept the original style leather laces though.
By this we mean the outsole is a single leather piece instead of two on top of each other. The double thickness soles are very stiff especially when new, but these allow for a more flexible step, stronger feel to the ground and they weigh less. But a single thickness sole bends more and thus requires more attention to maintenance; clean it and grease it once in a while. The rubber half-sole keeps it well protected from the elements, though.
In military use both styles - single and double, even triple thickness - have been used through the ages.
These are made with glued-on rubber half-soles and heel pieces. Durable mixture, somewhat slippery in cold, OK grip. These should serve you a long time.
When the rubber wears thin, take the boots to a cobbler, who can slap on new ones with the properties of your choosing (thickness vs grip vs hardness). It shouldn't be very expensive.
These are made with an old "2181 square toe last" which is very similar to the one used in Finnish army footwear up to the early 2000s. But unlike the Finnish boots that need double socks to fit right, these hug the feet quite snugly if needed. You might be well off with just one pair of socks.
The nose doesn't have any stiffeners whatsoever, so it just forms over the toes and after a while fits like a sock. The full leather construction supports this feature overall, for example, your feet will slowly leave their form on the leather footbed. Of course, if you feel like it, we suggest separate insoles - insoles are NOT included!
If you know you have a high arch, these might be quite tight! However after the leather footbed shapes to your feet and the upper gives in a little, these fit great.
Sizes in the British system, with comparable EU size in the brackets. On the chart below, you can also see the US size, insole length in millimeters, and the user's recommended foot length in millimeters. The manufacturer recommends roughly 15 mm (0.6") of allowance for the toes. The toes are not supposed to bottom out in the toe box, so compare your foot length to the recommended foot length!
UK size | US size | EU size | Footbed length | Foot length |
---|---|---|---|---|
UK 6 | US 7 | EU 39 | 260 mm | 246 mm |
UK 7 | US 8 | EU 40 | 268 mm | 254 mm |
UK 8 | US 9 | EU 41.5 | 278 mm | 262 mm |
UK 9 | US 10 | EU 42.5 | 285 mm | 271 mm |
UK 10 | US 11 | EU 44 | 293 mm | 279 mm |
UK 11 | US 12 | EU 45 | 303 mm | 288 mm |
UK 12 | US 13 | EU 46.5 | 312 mm | 296 mm |
If you fall between two sizes, the smaller one might do quite well as the fit is so forgiving.
Place your bare foot on a piece of paper, draw the outlines with a pen held up straight and then take the longest measurement from the heel to the toe (the line will probably look diagonal across the drawing). Do this later in the day when your feet have swollen up. Now you know your foot length, well done! Take this from both feet, as the other is usually a bit longer than the other. The human stuff is weird, huh?
As the shoe has a full leather construction, it will serve a long time provided it's regularly cared for. The manufacturer recommends first wearing the boots in dry conditions and as they slowly start to form, you can start applying grease on them from time to time. With use and with proper treatment, the leather will soften, darken, and smoothen, but you can "rough it up" with a brass nubuck brush if you so wish. We do not recommend shoe polish for this boot, use colorless grease instead. The gap between the upper and the sole must be paid special attention.
Like with any leather footwear, if the boots get wet, never dry them near a heat source - otherwise, the leather might get brittle and crack! Dry them at room temperature with good ventilation. When the boots are dry, remember to give them some greasy loving and they're like nothing happened.
Made by the British company William Lennon & Co. (est. 1899) in Stoney Middleton, UK. The boots are manufactured right there with high-quality materials, traditional methods, and original lasts, just as they were made over a hundred years ago. This is the local industry you want to support.
This configuration of the boot is only available from Varusteleka.
As with the wartime boots, these are not finished to perfection; they're made for use, not for show. Thus you can expect small cosmetic things like small imperfections on the outside surface of the leather, different inside shades of the leather, quite utilitarian stitching, loose thread end here or there and such. Friends of classic English-made products know what we're talking about!
However the boots are always 100 % fit for purpose and structually solid. With use and time the small cosmetic flaws will blend in and disappear under the patina, so the issue isn't big. Please accept this when ordering. However if the boots have actual flaws hindering use or they develop such problems despite proper use and care, or you're just not satisfied, don't hesitate to contact us, preferably with pictures.
The boots have a regular 12-month warranty against defects in materials and workmanship. Moreover, the boots can be sent for resoling at the William Lennon factory ([email protected]) but Varusteleka will not handle the resoling business in any way.
Lucas T.